196Baja runs good on bench, crappy on bike
Probably a bit lean.
DOes not take much to screw these rigth up.
Strip and clean the carb.
Normaly this is a no no but if you have some tiny drill bits find one that fits inside the main jet and just give it a bit of a rub. Real gentle your not trying to make this hole bigger just scrape it out since there is likely some varnish there and its a bit lean from the get go anyways so if you marginaly made it larger thats in you favour.
The idel jet is a bit trickier to find something to fit ( I think its around .017 or .018 ) you realy don't want to force anything in there bit if you have a thumb drill small enough just give it a rub.
Generaly I will not make these sugestions but. As long as your not rying to make anything bigger it should not hurt.
Pop the cap off the idel air screw and see if it can be brought in a little to richen things up.
You already know most of the tricks if you read a lot.
GX140 Etube increases the vacume signal on the main jet.
Richens up the transition from the low to high speed.
One drill size up on the main jet richens the midrange to the top end more broadly
On drill size on the idel gives you a better idel and more responsive low speed.
An idle air screw from a small Hyundai portable generator fits the clone carb( generaly ).
Hard to find a good clone screw these day with a slot in it thats why I mention it.
I have not tried this and will probably get an earfull for sugesting it but I think a carb off a Tech 8 hp engine would be a good place to start looking for cheap and easier carb ( provided its a pre emission version, I would not waste time with anything newer ).
Next sugestion I am going to float is a carb off a larger displacement Tech in the 200 to 300 cc range from an OHV motor would probably be the ideal choice ( designed to be a bit leaner on the top because OHV motors are a little more sensative to over fueling that flat heads ).
I don't know a lot about the specifics of them and never have been fond of this engine at all but they did have a decent carb that was easy to adjsut and never seemed to need as much attention as others out there.
DOes not take much to screw these rigth up.
Strip and clean the carb.
Normaly this is a no no but if you have some tiny drill bits find one that fits inside the main jet and just give it a bit of a rub. Real gentle your not trying to make this hole bigger just scrape it out since there is likely some varnish there and its a bit lean from the get go anyways so if you marginaly made it larger thats in you favour.
The idel jet is a bit trickier to find something to fit ( I think its around .017 or .018 ) you realy don't want to force anything in there bit if you have a thumb drill small enough just give it a rub.
Generaly I will not make these sugestions but. As long as your not rying to make anything bigger it should not hurt.
Pop the cap off the idel air screw and see if it can be brought in a little to richen things up.
You already know most of the tricks if you read a lot.
GX140 Etube increases the vacume signal on the main jet.
Richens up the transition from the low to high speed.
One drill size up on the main jet richens the midrange to the top end more broadly
On drill size on the idel gives you a better idel and more responsive low speed.
An idle air screw from a small Hyundai portable generator fits the clone carb( generaly ).
Hard to find a good clone screw these day with a slot in it thats why I mention it.
I have not tried this and will probably get an earfull for sugesting it but I think a carb off a Tech 8 hp engine would be a good place to start looking for cheap and easier carb ( provided its a pre emission version, I would not waste time with anything newer ).
Next sugestion I am going to float is a carb off a larger displacement Tech in the 200 to 300 cc range from an OHV motor would probably be the ideal choice ( designed to be a bit leaner on the top because OHV motors are a little more sensative to over fueling that flat heads ).
I don't know a lot about the specifics of them and never have been fond of this engine at all but they did have a decent carb that was easy to adjsut and never seemed to need as much attention as others out there.
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Oldsalt, thank you for suggestion. I am a greenhorn on this stuff. Might be over my head. Also, thanks for the engine offer. I have a blue clone comming next month if needed to do a swap. Is there a way to test under load on the bench? I might just pull it off and slap a flatty on this weekend. I really want to get this running though. You think if I move the gov arm to a different hole would help? It's in the first hole on the arm now. Or readjust the valves to .005 and .007 would make a diff? Thanks for your reply's.
If the intake is starting to open then you're on the exhaust/intake stroke. Roll the engine over slowly with the spark plug out and watch the valves. The exhaust will open and close then the intake will open and close. After the intake closes, keep rotating slowly while watching the piston. When it reaches TDC that's when you adjust the valves. Stock Honda specs are .006 for the intake and .008 for the exhaust.
Dad used to say if you can;t hear the valves they are probably too tight.
He would be offended today because I run ZERO lash.
That means non or as close as I can get to that point.
MORE than .003 or more not going to prevent an engine from running but it might cost you a race. A lot more lash than that is needed to prevent an engine from running however. Things literaly need to fall a part....
MORE lash will only stop an engine when it becomes so excessive things fall to pieces or break.
He would be offended today because I run ZERO lash.
That means non or as close as I can get to that point.
MORE than .003 or more not going to prevent an engine from running but it might cost you a race. A lot more lash than that is needed to prevent an engine from running however. Things literaly need to fall a part....
MORE lash will only stop an engine when it becomes so excessive things fall to pieces or break.
Uhhht oooh. Might be the issue. I adjusted the valves at tdc when the intake started to open. A little early huh? I had the plug out. Thats how I knew I was at tdc. So also may not be opening thevalve setting enough ,as I did .003 and.006 Gues it's take it off the frame again. Is there a way to test it under load without it on the bike? You'll are awsome with the help. I can handle Briggs and Tecs but as I told Grant in pm, I am a dork with da clone.
