Cafe/Cruiser Scratch Build

waltsuz

waltsuz

New Member
#1
#1
Just started on a cruiser bike that hopefully my wife and grand kids can handle. I got an idea a while back from Texasfabguy and this build will kinda resemble one off his, sort of.
Briggs 8hp, Comet TAV-2, live axle, disc brake, fat scooter tires and aluminum rims.
Wheels and engine are mocked on the bench to start the juices flowing. Here's the starting point:
 
waltsuz

waltsuz

New Member
#2
#2
Front end: Before I start bending the frame I went ahead and made the front end. I like the forks heavier in appearance than the frame so I made it from 1-1/4x.120 DOM. The tree's were cut from 3/16th's flat stock. The forks are 7-1/4 c to c. I will set the length on the frame jig as this developes.
 
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waltsuz

waltsuz

New Member
#4
#4
I built a frame jig on the last bike I made and was well worth the time. I need 15.5 inches between the engine mount and the bottom of the top frame rail for this Briggs to fit. I set the neck at 60 degrees and figured the height. With this setting correctly its easy to measure the pieces for the frame cradle. I always add an inch to both ends for goof's on the bender. I will trim this in when I start fitting and notching in the frame ends.
Cradle: 2-28inch pieces bent on 8inches to 60degrees
2-34inch pieces bent on 10inches to 105 degrees, all 1 inch DOM
 
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waltsuz

waltsuz

New Member
#5
#5
With all the pieces cut and bent I clamped it to the frame jig. Because the rails taper to the neck I made a splice where the motor mount will weld on. I will sleave this butt joint with a root opening and everything gets TIG'ed with E70S-2 rod
 
waltsuz

waltsuz

New Member
#7
#7
Neck said:
I LIKE IT!:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Thanks you Sir: I appreciate it...:smile:


Motor position: The rear section needs shortened 2 inches towards the engine. My plan is to make a section that looks like a swing arm that will weld to the rear bends of the cradle 1inch up from the bottom. This will stick the rear tire out back 10 inches or so resembling a stretched swing arm on a drag bike. It looks like the wheel base will end up right at 50inches. I have 1x3inch rectangle tubing to make the axle mounts or rigid swing arm wheel support thing'ie
 
Moedog07

Moedog07

New Member
#14
#14
Wow. You have talents and patience. I can't ever pause to photograph what I do. Once I'm on a roll I hate to stop and take pictures.
 
hemigremmy

hemigremmy

New Member
#16
#16
The build looks great, you do some very nice work! The frame jig looks great also!

So when you going to start mass producing these frames and selling them?

One of these days I plan on building a frame, I just need a few more things though to do it. Like a tubing bender, some tubing, a frame jig, a bench, a garage to put all this stuff in......oh and some talent!!! Forgot about that part, LOL! I'm sure there is stuff I'm forgetting.......someday....someday!
 
waltsuz

waltsuz

New Member
#17
#17
Frame Jig: Years ago I did frame modifications on Harleys. Trying to hold a front end straight became a major challenge. I'd line it up, weld it up and would end up with a twist off center on the front forks, pulled from welding. I took a good straight frame loaned from our local dealer and made a jig off the frame. I was actually able to check frames off this jig to see if they were actually straight. I ended up giving my jig to the dealer. This one I have now is similiar but much smaller. I spend maybe an hour with digital levels and a plumb bob on a center line setting it up. When I weld the neck in I maintain the plumb line on the jig center mark and it holds dead straight. I'm scare to death about hi speed wobbles and castering front ends, experienced it once. I wouldn't try this now without a jig, its some work to make but its really worth it.
 
waltsuz

waltsuz

New Member
#18
#18
The jig is totally adjustable. I set the neck at the angle I want and parallel a string to the all thread holding the neck. Eyeballing this shows the parallel reference of the string and when its on the all thread centerline and on the jig centerline its on the money. Each cross bar is adjustable for dead level to compensate for the bench again with a center line marked on it. The frame rails are set to the angle's clamped off the centerline the plumb bob is referenced from. I also have a holder for live axle bearings. I use this after the front cradle is made and welded up. Its better than 2 extra hands and very steady. If you look at the pix you can see how it works. You can do these without all this jig stuff but once you use one its really hard to not.
 
R

rmm727

Active Member
#19
#19
That is really nice. Thanks for posting the pics. What brand are those "vise grip clamps with the swivel pads and hand crank for the adjuster? I think I need some of those.
 
waltsuz

waltsuz

New Member
#20
#20
rmm727 said:
That is really nice. Thanks for posting the pics. What brand are those "vise grip clamps with the swivel pads and hand crank for the adjuster? I think I need some of those.
Click to expand...
Have a look here: tricktools.com
Good supply of some really neat tools,
 
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