Earlier, I spoke of relieving the crank shaft to make the PTO bearing a slip fit instead of an interference fit to facilitate easier installation of the snap ring which retains the PTO bearing. I found it extremely difficult to insert the snap ring accurately against the roll pin in the bearing bore, as well as get proper seating of the snap ring, due to the crankshaft counter weights being in the way. I found that by doing this, I had placed crankshaft run-out adjustment where it was dependent upon shims in the smaller support plate bearing. I decided to get the best of both words: If you cant visualize this, don't worry, if you ever build this engine, all of that makes sense. (grin)
So what I opted to do is insert piston first, then seat the PTO bearing, cleaned of any oil. Then I inserted the snap ring with miles of room to work with. I then coated the oil free bearing mating surface (where I'd relieved it) with Loctite 620. It is made for this application, is high temp, and the most expensive little bottle of anything I have ever purchased.
Then I inserted the snap ring on the back side, adding additional retaining power to the bearing. I will install a new oil seal.
I received the intake/stuffer from Tom. You can see how it displaces some of the volume within the case. This does magical two stroke stuff having to do with higher pressure on the bottom of the piston, and increased air flow.
The front side of Tom's piece is fitted to accept a West Bend 820 reed cage which is significantly larger that the original 580/700 cage. He forged this to match the 580/700 block of course.
Further taking the advice of vintage karters like Louie, I purchased this "clone" carburetor from Vince at California Vintage Karts. They've done a lot of testing with it on various two strokes and recommend it. It is much larger than my original Tillotson carburetor. I am using a few EC components for throttle. The carb actually "almost" says Walbro, those crafty Chinese!
The carburetor does not come with a choke detent- meaning the choke is designed for a lever/cable actuation system. I drilled out the detent spring boss with a 5/32, and inserted the spring and brass ball from the Tilly, and voila, I have choke.
CarPlayLB is sending me some more gaskets for mounting this stuff, as well as some of his reeds. I am also waiting for the 820 reed cage from US Motor Power.