I'm in! 2016 Build-Off Just for Fun

#41
I wanted to push the bars slightly forward, so they won't lean in so far. I was wondering if anyone knows how to do this without kinking the tubing.
 
#45
Used an old clutch to check the chain alignment, all good there! The 72 tooth sprocket is only 1 inch smaller than the 5 inch tire.. we all know how that works out while making a sharp corner!! Thanks again to Dave sending me the link on the brake parts, they also have a 60 tooth sprocket. I will need to recalculate the front sprocket size to reduce the overall speed.
 

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#46
I wanted to push the bars slightly forward, so they won't lean in so far. I was wondering if anyone knows how to do this without kinking the tubing.
You could rent/borrow a conduit bender for half a day. With help and heat, you can line up where you want the bend to be and move them. You'll have to lock the forks securely and "fake it" a couple times before doing the actual bends.
 
#48
The conduit bender didn't work, just scared the paint off the bars. I might try to heat them up and use a tree like Tim said. Still need to order a couple of parts and find a side cover with pto mounts.
 
#51
The conduit bender didn't work, just scared the paint off the bars. I might try to heat them up and use a tree like Tim said. Still need to order a couple of parts and find a side cover with pto mounts.
Wow, strong pipe. I used heat with a conduit bender and it worked. I untwisted the handle bars on the Maverick yesterday with rebar and heat---but that thing is like silly putty.
 
#53
Angelo, they did until I used some heat.. burned the old powder coat right off:laugh: Even with heat, it took some time to more them forward, cool them down with water and make sure they were straight. Also fixed the waffled right side fork stop. Should of been painted by now!
 

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#54
Got the parts today from Dave at Enginepowered! Thanks again to H.D. in Az. for the help finding the correct parts:thumbsup: It looks like I'll need to add a thin spacer between the drum and bearing to keep them from rubbing, easy fix. I also need to attach the rod to the drum so it will work with the scrub brake at the same time. Not sure which sprocket would be best for low end power, also the bike will be rode on flat ground. Looking for some low end power instead of speed, so I will have to figure that out.
 

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#58
I'm glad it worked out for you Owen. Those hubs require a spacer on the Cats too. I end up tack welding the spacer to the brake hub to ensure it wont grab/gall or spin. But not required.

Pretty gutsy bit of engineering getting it and the scrub to work together. I'd be lazy and run a hand brake for the drum, and a foot lever for the scrub just because the wear factor on each would require me to do stuff to it. With wrenches and stuff. :)
 
#59
Thanks Chad, Angelo and Buck! I really wish I could find a taller 5 inch knobbie tire. The 72 tooth is almost as big as the tire and we all know how that works out when making a sharp left hand turn! Dave, I thought about going with a band brake on the clutch, but the sprocket/drum looked too empty with nothing in it. I have it worked out in my very small brain and next stop will be to my machinists buddy's house and make up a couple of parts to see if it works.
 
#60
Thanks Chad, Angelo and Buck! I really wish I could find a taller 5 inch knobbie tire. The 72 tooth is almost as big as the tire and we all know how that works out when making a sharp left hand turn! Dave, I thought about going with a band brake on the clutch, but the sprocket/drum looked too empty with nothing in it. I have it worked out in my very small brain and next stop will be to my machinists buddy's house and make up a couple of parts to see if it works.
Do you have a Tractor Supply near you? I picked up a pair of "Hi-Run" 5 inch knobbies that seemed to be as tall as the 6" ones on my CAT 350. But they also had saw tooth 5" tires that were definitely taller than the knobbies I bought.
 
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