Nitrous people please step inside.
it was on my minibike...had to retire the frame it tried to kill me a few times..found out the extreme pull of the 390 on the juice bent the frame and the one inch axel in the rear. have a new frame I'm transferring everything over to now should be back running soon.
trying to get my supercharged boxer up at the same time..takes forever
trying to get my supercharged boxer up at the same time..takes forever
I would run a camp stove style fuel bottle that has the thumb pump on it then plumb it to the wet solenoid
Your not going to use more than a quart in a pass it will allow you to provide fuel pressure needed with out plumbing a fuel pump a pressure regulator and the wiring mess that goes with it
I constantly have to tell my self K.I.S.S
(Keep it simple stupid)
Or I'll over think things
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Your not going to use more than a quart in a pass it will allow you to provide fuel pressure needed with out plumbing a fuel pump a pressure regulator and the wiring mess that goes with it
I constantly have to tell my self K.I.S.S
(Keep it simple stupid)
Or I'll over think things
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OP
My Dad runs a wet kit on a World Formula engine. Not sure which kit exactly, but it was made for single cylinder, came with bottle, 2 solenoids, fuel pump, lines, and generic jets, he ordered more for tuning. We had to add a battery and a switch. I def wouldn't call it a mess of wiring. There are a ton of tuning hours/runs on the bike but it runs fast and safe. I think he is using a Walbro carb, forget what size. But we had to change both jets until we reached a point where we were just changing fuel jets. Reading the plug after each change told us whether there was more in it or not.
You're already running a solenoid, etc so adding another solenoid and fuel pump shouldn't be a big deal. Then your bike should run fine without the nitrous and only add the extra fuel when nitrous is engaged.
My Dad runs a wet kit on a World Formula engine. Not sure which kit exactly, but it was made for single cylinder, came with bottle, 2 solenoids, fuel pump, lines, and generic jets, he ordered more for tuning. We had to add a battery and a switch. I def wouldn't call it a mess of wiring. There are a ton of tuning hours/runs on the bike but it runs fast and safe. I think he is using a Walbro carb, forget what size. But we had to change both jets until we reached a point where we were just changing fuel jets. Reading the plug after each change told us whether there was more in it or not.
You're already running a solenoid, etc so adding another solenoid and fuel pump shouldn't be a big deal. Then your bike should run fine without the nitrous and only add the extra fuel when nitrous is engaged.
Well the battery we used was small, prob about the size used on a commercial trailer for the electric brakes. It is smaller than my lawn tractor battery. How long of a track are you racing?
Edit:
I found the kit, the pump is pretty small
https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=173
Edit:
I found the kit, the pump is pretty small
https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=173
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I've been using my buddies flounder light battery and I'm very impressed so far. Haven't charged it one time since I installed it... I also need to find one that can be charged on my 420cc engine. Those lithium ones would be good for my little bike and the regular battery for my 420 so it can charge.
I think I get what you mean by the pressurized fuel cell idea. You want to have nitrous on one side of the tee, and fuel on the other. A valve on the third nipple opens to the intake and the pressure in the fuel from the nitrous cross-feeding pushes the fuel out of the reservoir as the nitrous bottle loses pressure.
Is this what you're getting at?
Is this what you're getting at?
Well...I'm assuming the nitrous in a bottle is liquid that boils off in the bottle itself, like propane, right? And nitrous bottles are pressurized at about 1000PSI in that case. A pulse pump only produces a fuel pressure equivalent to the peak pressure in the crankcase after the intake and ignition strokes. I don't know what that pressure would be in a 4-stroke, but it's less then a 2-stroke and my snowmobile puts out around 5PSI.
Now with this setup, you're going to have cross-flow and the fuel dissolve in the NO2, basically making a bomb. I wouldn't want the fuel and NO2 to mix until after it's in the manifold. If by chance it decides to ignite there, you're alot safer.
Now with a Venturi setup, nothing mixes if it's not flowing. Also, you have the benefit of jetting the fuel and NO2 individually. Since my dad owns a machine shop, I'll be doing some experimenting sometime.
Now with a Venturi setup, nothing mixes if it's not flowing. Also, you have the benefit of jetting the fuel and NO2 individually. Since my dad owns a machine shop, I'll be doing some experimenting sometime.
Correct, in a pressurized form it's liquid and once it hits atmosphere it turns to a gas.
So if you do a shark nozzle where the fuel is sprayed in front of the nitrous, the nitrous would push the fuel and atomize it. You could also run a wet type of kit after the carb as opposed to running the dry shot before the carb so that the nitrous can pull the extra fuel it needs as it goes by.
So if you do a shark nozzle where the fuel is sprayed in front of the nitrous, the nitrous would push the fuel and atomize it. You could also run a wet type of kit after the carb as opposed to running the dry shot before the carb so that the nitrous can pull the extra fuel it needs as it goes by.