Here's a picture of a rod knocked out of a chevy trail blazer. We thought the engine was locked up but got it to turn back with a pry bar on the starter teeth. Hit the key and... clunk. Turned it back farther this time. Hit the key and it bangs past the tight spot and finally starts (with a horrible knock). I look under the car expecting to see oil running out of somewhere, which there was. Shut the car off and took these pics. The one with the cardboard is under the car, showing a piece of the rod right where it landed. The other is the hole in the block. I say tape up the hole, fill with oil, and keep going. :thumbsup: Sorry the first picture is burry, the camera kept focusing on the closer stuff. You know your not having a good day when you look under your car and pieces of your bottom end are laying on the pavement.
myself and 2 friends bought an 80's S10 for $100 and it developed a knock. my friend was beating the hell out of it on the other friend's property when the knock when away. he stopped and said it was running better. 20 seconds later it quit and had a hole in the block. :laugh:
we then had fun with axes, guns and spray paint. i wish i kept the before/after pics but they are on the internet somewhere and i have no idea where to find them.
Wow, definitely something I want to learn the hard way! I'm getting ready to build a 5hp Briggs, and a billet flywheel and rod are first on the list for parts purchases. I think lawn_boy_biker may want to take a look at this thread...lol.
I am beginning to think the flywheel explosion is a little bunk unless one is really pushing it. Sure it happens but after seeing some tests and such I think it has been overemphasized. I'm going to upgrade the connecting rod to billet and upgrade the flywheel at a future date when I build more power.
I remember the last time i saw a victa [australian two stroke]flywheel let go i hadent put the new flywheel on as i didnt have the new steped woodruf key so ran it up carfully it let go anyway 12250 rpm destroyed the new expansion chamber ben:scared::scared:t the crank put holes in the roof made a real mess very scarey when you see it happen !
you guys just reminded me/back in about 92 on holiday with a few mates /about 1300 miles i guess 2000ks the old ford cortina 4 cyl chucked a leg outa bed we were broke just petrol money left borowed tools from the locals puled the motor out pulled piston rod and push rods welded up the oil galery hole in the crank to keep the oil pressure put a leather patch /silastic on the side of the block and drove home .slow on the hills but over 50 on the flat it was fine .lost a days pay another fun australian adventure with my mates.:laugh::laugh:
:facepalm:I cannot understand how after reading the sticky anyone would dispute the fact that billet components are needed for safety when removing the governor on any engine. Newbs or not if they can read and reason there should be no comments left ever here.
So does this mean we can't ask a question about problems we are having AFTER removing govenor BEFORE joining site, and while waiting for new internal parts to come in? (IE: my engine now uses choke as throttle for some reason). I don't want to get banned or anything so I thought I better ask here before I post any questions about my set up, Thanks!
Ps: I solved my problem; it was just a high idle, I just used that as an example. Thanks!
"AFTER removing govenor BEFORE joining site, and while waiting for new internal parts to come in?"
As they say "there's your sign"
You got lucky, I wouldn't trust one of these Chinese clones as far as I could throw one without a governor. Older briggs and Tec's with judicious throttle control maybe. I don't have nothing without a governor. My need for speed has slowed over the years. Get the right stuff man, you are young and you might want to have kids, so protect the family jewels.
Yeah, the more I dive into the governor debate on clones &/or chinabikes it seems like its not the best idea. I reckon I can just go back to HF and get a stocker again and enjoy the copious torque gains vs that 2.8 lifan. I relayed the info i've gleamed off here to my friend helping with the mini and he seemed shocked when I showed catastrophic failure pictures; but, "just a poor college kid" haha. Thanks for responses guys.
I just got a 212cc predator and got a torque conv., straight pipe header, K&N filter and a 3.3 lb billet fly wheel with 28 deg advance timing. I got the new torque conv. and header on today and so far runs smooth. I plan on the filter and flywheel this weekend. But do I need to change my rod for the 28 deg timing? or will it be safe with stock internal stuff? Thanks