torque converters???

doodle-bug

doodle-bug

Member
#1
#1
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doodle-bug

doodle-bug

Member
#4
#4
yes i was thinking i might have to change the rear sprocket.

thanks. ill check it out.

what did you have to do to fit it on or is it fairly simple?
 
Possom point

Possom point

Active Member
#5
#5
doodle-bug said:
yes i was thinking i might have to change the rear sprocket.

thanks. ill check it out.

what did you have to do to fit it on or is it fairly simple?
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I haven't installed it yet, I have the one with a #41 10 tooth sprocket. I'm modifying my motor before I install it. this is a great forum for advice and help on any mini bike!!
 
doodle-bug

doodle-bug

Member
#6
#6
thanks for the help!

The only thing I am wondering about is that the link i gave said it was specific for predator because it had a special washer to make it fit. I am all for the cheaper option as long as it is reliable and works.
 
Possom point

Possom point

Active Member
#7
#7
doodle-bug said:
thanks for the help!

The only thing I am wondering about is that the link i gave said it was specific for predator because it had a special washer to make it fit. I am all for the cheaper option as long as it is reliable and works.
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I see what you mean now, I'm not sure. Technically isn't the predator motor a clone of a Honda anyway? like a GX160.... You could always get a washer that's close to that size and make it fit.

If not I'm curious to know myself just for my knowledge.
 
doodle-bug

doodle-bug

Member
#8
#8
yes that is what i thought but for the tav2 there is a note that says:

"The predator has a shoulder at the crankshaft base that sits about 1/8" lower than a true Honda or clone engine. this will cause the driver to rub on the mounting plate. solution: you will need an extra 1/8" x 1-1/8" OD washer to install onto the crankshaft before you install the spacer. this will push the driver an aditional 1/8" and provide proper operation and belt alignment. part #1057 predator crank washer. you may also have to remove or relocate the catalytic converter."

i sort-of answered my own question there. So if i get the one you recommended i can just get the washer separate? makes sense.
 
doodle-bug

doodle-bug

Member
#11
#11
Newoldstock said:
This old part will fit without cutting or grinding.

Torque Converter Backplate & Jackshaft
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Thanks! do i buy the rest of the parts separately then? i may need to look at some diagrams to see what else i need. I couldn't find that washer by itself but i think it is a fairly standard piece you could get at a hardware store.

I am sure there a a few different ways to do it but if i had a list of what i needed to buy it would make it so much easier. there has got to be a bunch of people doing the same thing i am. Most must just experiment which is what i could do but that seems to always be the expensive way, and i would rather ask those that have figure it out. so thanks for any help.:thumbsup: maybe i am over complicating things. :confused:

I may end up taking it to a minibike shop near me(old school minibikes). but i would much rather do it myself for the experience.
 
Newoldstock

Newoldstock

New Member
#15
#15
doodle-bug said:
think i got it sorted! thanks guys! ill post if i cant figure it out when i get it. i might do it here thoughhttp://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/projects-and-rides/130264-cadillac-blue-gold-doodlebug-2.html
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Draw it all all and look for issues before you start.
Your not the first to build this so if you search and read up you might spot possible mistakes before they cause you trouble.

The jack shaft I posted can be assembled from assorted parts they sell.
I have one myself but I never used it.
I went from a TAV-2 to an older TAV and then finally went for a third option of a yerfdog jack shaft assembly

Turns out you can spend twice as much money( even more in some cases ) as you intended to build one bike and still have enough left overs to not quite build a second lol.
 
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doodle-bug

doodle-bug

Member
#16
#16
Newoldstock said:
Draw it all all and look for issues before you start.
Your not the first to build this so if you search and read up you might spot possible mistakes before they cause you trouble.

The jack shaft I posted can be assembled from assorted parts they sell.
I have one myself but I never used it.
I went from a TAV-2 to an older TAV and then finally went for a third option of a yerfdog jack shaft assembly

Turns out you can spend twice as much money( even more in some cases ) as you intended to build one bike and still have enough left overs to not quite build a second lol.
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I have looked at a couple of different things. are you saying i would be better off with the backplate and jackshaft kit you posted? so far i haven't seen much on people having to cut or grind, nor has anyone besides you mentioned it. just wondering if that is the same thing people have been saying about raising the engine. i will look some more though.:thumbsup:

how did your experience go with it or have you used it yet? or maybe i should ask was it a predator you were using? i just need to know peoples experiences with putting one of these torque converters on a predator to know what to expect, and to help with purchasing decisions.

The one i posted is on ebay for $73.

I see what your saying about the spending money thing. i have done a lot of trial and error already. :hammer:

thanks for your help! :smile:
 
Newoldstock

Newoldstock

New Member
#17
#17
You can raise the engine for clearence, cut a corner out of the TAV, slot the holes slightly and remove a cooling shroud.
Lots of different ways to skin a cat.

The obsolete plate I posted was intended for a kart I think.
They have not made that steel part in years but there are still a few of them in stock at BMI.
I think its worth a look because its steel so the parts are thinner and give you more room to rotate the plate for clearance and there is no need to notch the steel.
 
doodle-bug

doodle-bug

Member
#18
#18
Sounds like a good idea. I can easily cut steel as i have a angle grinder and have used it many times, But i am always nervous i will do something wrong because of not having worked on minis before.:doah: Although it looks like it would be pretty straight forward. As far as raising the engine it was already raised at some point(look at photos) but i am assuming it needs to be raised more again?:confused:

As i am on an budget i am obviously leaning towards the cheaper option, but it would make more sense to spend the money to save the hassle.

how hard is it to raise the engine?

Ill make a decision and ask if i have questions.

WIN_20160606_212942.JPG

WIN_20160606_212959.JPG

thanks again for your help:thumbsup:
 
gumpit

gumpit

#19
#19
doodle-bug said:
Sounds like a good idea. I can easily cut steel as i have a angle grinder and have used it many times, But i am always nervous i will do something wrong because of not having worked on minis before.:doah: Although it looks like it would be pretty straight forward. As far as raising the engine it was already raised at some point(look at photos) but i am assuming it needs to be raised more again?:confused:

As i am on an budget i am obviously leaning towards the cheaper option, but it would make more sense to spend the money to save the hassle.

how hard is it to raise the engine?

Ill make a decision and ask if i have questions.

View attachment 86528

View attachment 86529

thanks again for your help:thumbsup:
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I raised this with a block of aluminum.
 
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