"Just for fun" Class Tote Gote Nova 780

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Havasu Dave

Moderator
#181
#181
Continuing the strip and prime of the many frame components. I still have no idea of what paint color to use. Original was lead-based red with black tins. Stripping the sub frame, I noted more of an orange hue. :shrug:

Stripping requires many coats, and using steel wool on the wet stripper. Lead-based paint was sure good stuff. It does look utilitarian in etching primer puke green colors. :thumbsup:
 
Richard Trotter

Richard Trotter

#182
#182
The old red 'lead' paint faded to a orange with age. Personally, I don't think high gloss paint looks good on an old tote gote. I use 'satin' finish paint so if I have to do a 'touch-up', it won't be too glaring. The Ceriani shocks were 13" eye to eye, giving a little more travel and ride height. Fork oil should work in the shocks, if you need to go lighter. It comes in weights down to 5wt. Motul Expert Fork Oil | Dirt Bike | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#184
#184
Richard Trotter said:
The old red 'lead' paint faded to a orange with age. Personally, I don't think high gloss paint looks good on an old tote gote. I use 'satin' finish paint so if I have to do a 'touch-up', it won't be too glaring.
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The only way I know of to achieve a matt finish is to clear coat with a dulling agent. $$$

TANKSAREUS said:
GTO Orange with matt clear coat:thumbsup: - Black Trim
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I've done two bikes already in competition orange. One of my favorite colors.

(Edit) Losing too many brain cells. Going with original scheme- red everything, black tank, silver wheels.
 
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Andre' Blaze'

Andre' Blaze'

New Member
#185
#185
Havasu Dave said:
Took some 22 ga over to a friend's garage and fabricated some side covers based on photos.

I measured where the clutch driven would come in contact for placing that round dimple. End result is that it looks wrong, so I'll be dollying it back flat, and making a larger anvil for it.



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Those covers look cool !!!!:thumbsup:
 
N

N8ball

Member
#188
#188
This is one of my favorite rebuilds. All kinds of stuff going into it. Nice work on the sheet metal, even if you have to redo the dimple. You said 22 gauge, but I didn't see the material call out. It's tough to tell from the pic, is it Steel or aluminum?
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#189
#189
N8ball said:
This is one of my favorite rebuilds. All kinds of stuff going into it. Nice work on the sheet metal, even if you have to redo the dimple. You said 22 gauge, but I didn't see the material call out. It's tough to tell from the pic, is it Steel or aluminum?
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Thanks Nate- 22 ga steel. I've already reshaped the dimple using a Cat minibike brake drum and a hammer. Still a bit rough, but it'll work. My friend told me he's got his nibbler up and running, so one day I may attempt another one. Maybe sooner if this one hits the driven pulley. :wink:
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#190
#190
Here's a side cover, hammered bigger. Cat mini bike brake drum is 4.25" and seems about right for the "anvil" portion. A few dings still, but high build primer and a decal will hopefully make me look like a fabricating genius. :laugh:



Speaking of fabricating genius, the center stand I made earlier didn't hold up. I discovered I'd removed too much tubing wall, trying to grind my ugly welds, causing it to crack in several places. So here is try #3. 3/8 round with some supports. It seems sturdy enough.



I painted the beat up wheels with Krylon argent silver out of a rattle can. I only had two wheels and the front brake hub to do in silver, and couldn't justify paying for automotive paint. Once the Krylon set, I painted with two-part urethane clear. I also did the shocks that I'd previously rattle canned with Krylon black. I didn't know if this would work, but it did. Good to know for future projects.

 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#192
#192
tippycanoenm said:
nice work dave.......i will take any reject side panels you wanna toss......:thumbsup::thumbsup:
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Tippy, if I do rework some more panels, I'll definitely sell you one for the cost of the steel and shipping. Or you can trade me your Powell. :laugh:

If you want, I can also do your shocks with the parts I have left for shipping costs. Or your Ford. :deal:
 
tippycanoenm

tippycanoenm

Active Member
#193
#193
sounds good to me dave........i will even toss in some beer money.....i know a guy gets thirsty working so hard with a hammer..........:thumbsup::thumbsup::drinkup:

but.......i will take you for a ride in my blue bird........she is my first car and i dont think im gonna part with her anytime soon.....:laugh:
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#194
#194
tippycanoenm said:
sounds good to me dave........i will even toss in some beer money.....i know a guy gets thirsty working so hard with a hammer..........:thumbsup::thumbsup::drinkup:

but.......i will take you for a ride in my blue bird........she is my first car and i dont think im gonna part with her anytime soon.....:laugh:
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:thumbsup: :pimp:
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#195
#195
Painted a total of 11 pieces a Mazda "True Red" using Nason paint. (urethane with catalyst at 8:1 and 8:2 reducer) I used an entire pint, and I really need some more to fix the dry places. In real life, this thing is RED, not the orangish hue like this photo.


I added some 90wt oil to the drive unit and discovered it leaks, so I need to replace an oil seal on the drive axle.

I used old inner tube rubber and contact cement and made pads for the center stand bottom, and along the frame where it rests.
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#198
#198
YOOP said:
looks good dave. why not just clear over it to remedy the dry spots
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"Dry" meaning I screwed up and didn't put enough red on. There were 11 total pieces, frame, sub frame, two fenders, two side pieces, kick stand, foot pegs, a couple others. I got lost in the rock and roll, realizing I was running out of paint.

Then there's the reading glasses getting painted up, painting upside down with a glare, laying in the water I put down to mitigate overspray on my floor.

IF I had all the paint I had on the floor left over, I'd be golden. I have a teaspoon of paint left, I'll reduce it and hit the bad spots with a brush when assembled. The beauty of this paint.

Oh by the way, a frikking PINT cost me $53. I forgot to use my car club discount too.

Not one of my better jobs. Even the crapper in the garage has red paint on it.
 
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