El Tigre: Made by American or Bird?
- Thread starter Dr. Shop Teacher
- Start date
- Tags american bird tigre
If I had one of those that was tore up, I'd tear it up some more :grind: I see all the makings of an early swing frame taco design right there for the taking :thumbsup: I'd call it "Churro with chocolate sauce" cause that bitch would be sweet! Plus that would avoid getting a cease and desist letter from Taco :laugh:
Too windy for me to take out one the Cats for a spin yesterday. I should have the bike back today or Monday and I'll let you know what the cost was to fix it (a ball park for you).
Yep, almost the season!
They is ugly about that ain't they? We'll see what this puppy looks like when I get her back from my welding guru.
Ahem, don't you have a build off bike to do or you going to make Wulf and me do all the work???:laugh: We talk, you know.
Yep, almost the season!
They is ugly about that ain't they? We'll see what this puppy looks like when I get her back from my welding guru.
Ahem, don't you have a build off bike to do or you going to make Wulf and me do all the work???:laugh: We talk, you know.
Frame repairs
My welder spent a couple days working on the neck and upper frame. He also replaced the foot peg bar with solid 3/8 rod and straightened out the scrub brake and replaced the scrub pad (no photo yet). The tubing is really soft metal. When I got it back, I tried shaping the tubing and got really worried about the neck and top rail tubes...still very flimsy. I made the tactical decision to add a gusset to the top rails at the neck and blend it in. The gusset will have a hole drilled in it to mount a cut-off switch ala ARCO. I was also able to relieve some of the stress in the top rail by peening the tubes with a hammer. The curvature is pretty much gone. The rake is now set to 25 degrees and the top and bottom rails sit level. Not original anymore, but way safer.
My welder spent a couple days working on the neck and upper frame. He also replaced the foot peg bar with solid 3/8 rod and straightened out the scrub brake and replaced the scrub pad (no photo yet). The tubing is really soft metal. When I got it back, I tried shaping the tubing and got really worried about the neck and top rail tubes...still very flimsy. I made the tactical decision to add a gusset to the top rails at the neck and blend it in. The gusset will have a hole drilled in it to mount a cut-off switch ala ARCO. I was also able to relieve some of the stress in the top rail by peening the tubes with a hammer. The curvature is pretty much gone. The rake is now set to 25 degrees and the top and bottom rails sit level. Not original anymore, but way safer.
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The Ugly Duckling--A work in progress
Spent time working on the Maverick today while waiting for parts for the Ruttman and the Gilson. I drilled the gusset for a cut-off switch and mounted the front fork. New shocks were installed (I couldn't ones to match the originals) and the bike sits nearly level. I also pulled out the rubber bushing at the neck (the frame lower pivots here) and made up a two piece nylon bushing. Seemed to tighten up the frame a bit.
Spent time working on the Maverick today while waiting for parts for the Ruttman and the Gilson. I drilled the gusset for a cut-off switch and mounted the front fork. New shocks were installed (I couldn't ones to match the originals) and the bike sits nearly level. I also pulled out the rubber bushing at the neck (the frame lower pivots here) and made up a two piece nylon bushing. Seemed to tighten up the frame a bit.
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Really Ugly Duckling Handlebars
The handle bars were a mess. I ground off the u-bolts that had been brazed onto the bars. Then I mounted it in the work-make and used a Hand-Screw (wooden clamp) and a propane torch to spread the bars back to their proper width. The bars were still twisted front to rear, so I headed down to my mechanic and we heated them up with an oxy-acetylene torch and got them close to original form. Then I headed next door to the hardware store and picked up two new u-bolts. Mounted the repaired bars to check the fit and set the Briggs-in-the-Buff 3.5 hp engine on it to start to figure out a chain tensioner. The scrub brake is set in place, but still needs more sanding to get the weld slag off; the entire center section was replaced by my welder.
The handle bars were a mess. I ground off the u-bolts that had been brazed onto the bars. Then I mounted it in the work-make and used a Hand-Screw (wooden clamp) and a propane torch to spread the bars back to their proper width. The bars were still twisted front to rear, so I headed down to my mechanic and we heated them up with an oxy-acetylene torch and got them close to original form. Then I headed next door to the hardware store and picked up two new u-bolts. Mounted the repaired bars to check the fit and set the Briggs-in-the-Buff 3.5 hp engine on it to start to figure out a chain tensioner. The scrub brake is set in place, but still needs more sanding to get the weld slag off; the entire center section was replaced by my welder.
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Tinkering around with the Ugly Duckling
Tractor Supply had 5" knobbies on sale, so I picked up a pair of them today. CarPlay (Eric) located the correct Hex Star rear rim and sprocket for the Maverick, so I picked up some new bolts and assembled the rims. The original bike had a fender support that mounted using the axle (I think). Using a photo that one of the members provided, I bent some 1" flat stock and eyeballed the height. A few adjustments later, and it was shaped.
The rear wheel does not run true. I had read these bikes tend to kick the chains off and the rim seems to contribute. There's a big wobble in the sprocket. I spun the wheel to locate the run out on the sprocket--I used a pencil to locate the high spot. To fix it, i have two options: one is to space the sprocket out on the low side by stacking washers or second, to file the high spots down. It's about an 1/8" and is between 2 bolts. So, I should be able to gradually work the sprocket flanges down to get true it up. The wheel, though, is still going to wobble a bit but not worse than Furball, my first CAT 400x.
Tractor Supply had 5" knobbies on sale, so I picked up a pair of them today. CarPlay (Eric) located the correct Hex Star rear rim and sprocket for the Maverick, so I picked up some new bolts and assembled the rims. The original bike had a fender support that mounted using the axle (I think). Using a photo that one of the members provided, I bent some 1" flat stock and eyeballed the height. A few adjustments later, and it was shaped.
The rear wheel does not run true. I had read these bikes tend to kick the chains off and the rim seems to contribute. There's a big wobble in the sprocket. I spun the wheel to locate the run out on the sprocket--I used a pencil to locate the high spot. To fix it, i have two options: one is to space the sprocket out on the low side by stacking washers or second, to file the high spots down. It's about an 1/8" and is between 2 bolts. So, I should be able to gradually work the sprocket flanges down to get true it up. The wheel, though, is still going to wobble a bit but not worse than Furball, my first CAT 400x.
